How to grow perennial plants from seed. Is it cost effective? Is it different from growing veggies and annuals from Seed?
Most people are familiar with how to grow annuals from seed, but many avoid growing perennials from seed. Others, who have tried to grow perennials from seed, fail because the subtle differences between annuals and perennials are not known.
Initially, you need to decide if growing your perennials from seed is practical. One package of seed will contain anywhere from ten to several hundred seeds. The average cost of the packet is generally under five dollars. Depending on the size of perennial that you purchase, you will frequently only save a few dollars between buying the perennial plant and buying the seed. So it is important to know how many plants you need. If you only need one or two plants, then buying the plant is usually worth it. However, if you need ten or more, then growing the perennial from seed might be worth it.
Aim to start the seed twelve to fourteen weeks before your last frost date. This will be in January or February in the north, when they need to be started indoors. In the south, where the soil is already warming up you will be able to start the seed directly outdoors in March or April. Many perennials can also be started in the warm, late summer soils. This is particularly true for the perennials that require a few weeks of freezing before they can germinate.
For starting indoors, sow the seeds in a small pot and cover lightly with potting mix. Cover the pot with cling wrap to keep it moist. Place the pot in a warm place to germinate. Be patient. Perennials can take three to six weeks, sometimes longer, to germinate. Wait until most of the seeds are growing, then move the pot to a cooler location. Do not expect all the seeds to germinate. Viability in perennials is frequently lower than with annuals, so you may find that only fifty percent of the seeds sown actually germinate. When the seedlings are large enough to handle, around four to six inches high, they can be slowly hardened off outside assuming that the weather is now mild and well above freezing. Bring the seedlings in if there is a danger of a late frost. Plant the perennials in their permanent position when the weather is warm and all danger of frost is past. Do not expect the perennials to bloom the first year. Frequently they spend this year growing roots and gaining strength. Some perennials take two or even three years before they will bloom, but the majority will bloom in the second year. Once established the perennials that you grew from seed will thrive as well as the store purchased ones.
©Text and photograph by Kate Copsey, Feb, 2006. Reproduction without permission prohibited.
The copyright of the article
Growing from Seed in
Plants & Bulbs is owned by
Kate Copsey. Permission to republish
Growing from Seed must be granted by the author in writing.
Comments
Feb 22, 2006 12:53 PM
Kate Copsey
:
Have you tried to grow perennials from seed? If so, what were your results? Did you have any unforseen problems or give up in dismay?
Feb 23, 2006 7:41 AM
Barbara Nicholson Bell
:
Welcome, Kate! I haven't tried recently, because the one time I tried to grow annuals from seed, the results were a failure. This may be because there was not sufficient light, even by a large window. Here in the north in the late winter/early spring, we don't have a lot of sunny days.
I wanted to ask if the seedlings should be thinned out so that only a few strong ones are allowed to continue growing?
Feb 23, 2006 10:12 AM
Jojo Sigurgeirson
:
Selection is my main reason for growing perennials from seeds. For example, I like to use a herb called Motherwort occasionally (<i>Leonurus cardiaca</i>) and I prefer my source organic and fresh, so I have to have a plant or two around. I have never found a plant of this in the store, and I don't blame the stores at all, because I'll tell you, it's not highly ornamental. So growing this perennial from seed was my only option. Luckily it's dead easy.
Last year I grew roughly 150 asparagus plants for the price of 3 bundles of 2-year-old crowns. Sure, I have to wait an additional 2 years for the crowns to be old enough to harvest from, but the varieties I chose are better for my area than the crowns available (mass grown in some central location where fusarium crown rot is not a problem?). Looking at all the varieties available is fun, and this goes for all plants, not just asparagus. One of the varieties I chose is tinged slightly purple. One of the varieties is open-pollinated, meaning the plants will be all various and each have a character of their own. From this bunch I can select ones that are best, divide them up and make more. The third variety is a proven winner for our area, but not available as a crown -- seeds only.
Some perennials don't transplant nicely at all. You buy a plant for $2 and watch it wither away. How depressing (that's why I need the motherwort I guess). Lupines are a good example of this. I like to seed them directly where they are to grow.
My favourite seed companies are JL Hudson http://www.jlhudsonseeds.org for rare and interesting seeds, heirloom vegetables
and west coast seeds http://www.westcoastseeds.com/ for herbs, veggies and cover crops.
Feb 23, 2006 12:46 PM
Kate Copsey
:
Barbara
In the north it is sometimes difficult to get enough sun because of the short day lengths as well as cloudy days. I recommend a strong light source above the seedlings - 2-4 inches above. Leave this on for 12 hours/day and the seeds will be stronger. Also do not start seedlings too early as they will struggle for nutrients, unless you pot them up into larger quarters. Generally thinning seedling indoors is not necessary as you will be tranplanting them to the right distance when they get to be moved outside.
Feb 23, 2006 12:49 PM
Kate Copsey
:
Jojo - you are absolutely right about the varieties available through catalogues when you choose to grow from seed. I grew about 150 varieties of herbs when I had a herb business and grew most of them from seed. My favorite is Betony (Stachys officinalis) but Motherwort is also a wonderful plant in the garden.
Mar 19, 2006 7:42 PM
Reni Winter
:
Hi Kate,
A friend sent me some lufa seeds from south Mississippi and I live in Indiana. Do you think they'll have any problem with the cooler climate? I'm starting them indoors, but am curious if I should stick to seeds from plants grown in the same zone as the one I live in.
Thanks,
Reni
Mar 20, 2006 9:41 AM
Kate Copsey
:
Reni
Luffa is a type of cucumber that takes about 4 months to mature. Your problem in Indiana is that your summer will not be quite long enough for the fruit to mature. The solution is to have lots of protection around the plant in the spring and fall, but also to get a good start in the spring. Plant the seeds in a larger than normal pot early, so that they are a good size before putting them into the garden in mid/late May (depending on which end of Indiana you live in). Try to get the soil warm before you plant by making little hills and covering the area with black plastic for a week or two to increase the temperatures. As for sticking to annuals that just grow in your zone - that would cut out so many interesting varieties!
